When I got home, I looked at city maps to confirm that what
I had noticed about the differing plans was true, and I found that my
observation was correct. I also noticed
something else on the maps that I found intriguing: the churches that were
started before 1630 are on the traditional east-west axis, but the churches
that were started after 1630 and after Örnehufvud’s city plan was implemented
are on axis with the street grid instead.
Churches were traditionally oriented east-west so that the alter would
face the rising sun (or rising son), and this tradition holds true throughout
the centuries, throughout the changing architectural styles, and throughout the
continent. But after the implementation
of Örnehufvud’s city plan, this tradition was abandoned in Stockholm;
instead of orienting churches to the rising sun, architects now oriented Stockholm’s churches to
the city itself. And since the entire city was arranged to radiate outward from the king's castle, the churches were now more oriented toward the king than toward the risen son of god.
When laying out his street grid, Örnehufvud worked around
existing churches. He identified
locations where new churches would be located when the surrounding
neighborhoods were built-up enough to require a new parish. These churches were given generous yards
which encompass two to four city blocks, giving each neighborhood a bit of open
green space. Örnehufvud meant for these
new churches to be orienting landmarks within the ever-increasing density of
the city. Usually, the church is located
on axis with streets that dead-end into the church block. These dead-end streets provide clear visual
access to the orienting church spires.
Katarina Kyrka's spire is visible throughout the neighborhood and is even prominent from across the water |
While the churchyards provide a green relief from the cityscape, they function as cemeteries with gravesites throughout the yard. Many of the churches I visited also had a series of family tombs built into a thickened wall around part of the churchyard. Other buildings also abutted the churchyard walls, usually including a parsonage and sometimes other ancillary buildings such as a school or hospital.
1719 tomb at Maria Magdalena Kyrka and parsonage at Kungsholmen Kyrka |
Not only were churches now oriented to the city instead of
the rising sun, but they were also oriented inward, toward the congregation,
and not outward, toward the world. The
traditional cross-shaped plans had a trajectory: they encouraged you to walk
down the long nave toward the alter, and even the rituals of worship took
advantage of the nave as the priests, choirs, brides, and alter boys processed up and
down the naves. I haven’t done much
research into this, but the newer, symmetrical plans must have been related to Sweden’s
bourgeoning Lutheranism which became the official state religion in 1593.
Lutherans believed that a priest wasn’t needed as an
intermediary between man and god; instead, man could communicate with god by
himself. The priest was no longer
semi-divine and became human again, stepping down from the high alter. Religious life was no longer a hierarchy with
the priest on top, instead, importance was placed on each individual and on the
congregation as a whole. Likewise, as
the role of regular people became more important within religious life, focus
inside the church turned from the priest toward the congregation itself,
resulting in symmetrical plans with a focus toward the center of the
church.
In addition to the new types of building plans, the
architectural styles of the churches changed with the new religious era. An influx of foreign, continent-based
architects influenced design away from the late-gothic and Northern European
Renaissance styles of the 16th century and refocused design toward a
more restrained Dutch Palladianism.
As King Gustav I became more and more anti-Catholic, priests
and monks (along with those who were loyal to the Danish) fled the city to take
sanctuary in the churches and monasteries surrounding Stockholm, taking valuables from the city
churches with them. A dangerous
concentration of the King’s detractors was building up just outside the city. Now that the war with the Danes had been won,
Gustav wanted to rebuild the parts of the city that had been obliterated during
the battles. In a two birds, one stone
maneuver, he passed an Act of Parliament in 1527 which proclaimed that all
churches and monasteries in the Stockholm
suburbs would be demolished, and their bricks and stones would be transported
into Stockholm
to rebuild the city and reinforce the castle’s defenses.
It is with these bricks that Clara Kyrka (map 1, 1577) was
built on the mainland just north of Gamla Stan, replacing a 1289 monastery that
had fallen into ruin before the Danish wars.
The interior was rebuilt after a fire in 1751, and the spire was rebuilt
several times, most recently in the 1880’s.
However, it is still possible to see the late-Gothic rib vaults and the
pointed-arch windows as well as the traditional east-facing nave.
St. Jacob’s Kyrka (map 2, 1588) was originally located in
Solna, a town just to the west of Stockholm. This church was destroyed due to the 1527 Act
of Parliament, and its stones were moved inside the city to the site of a
ruined burial chapel a few blocks from Clara Kyrka. Willem Boy was probably the architect. The interior consists of a nave with two side
aisles separated from the main aisle by chunky stone columns. The late-Gothic style is evidenced by the
pointed-arch rib vaults and windows, however, the transition to Renaissance
styles is indicated by the rounded arches separating the roof vaults. The current tower was built in 1739,
replacing a tower destroyed by fire.
On Södermalm, Maria Magdalena Kyrka (map 3, 1588) also
replaced an older church. Nothing about
this church is Gothic; both the nave vault and the window arches are rounded,
giving the church a more Renaissance flavor.
This church contains a traditional nave but no side aisles. I haven’t found much information about the
way the church originally looked, but it seems to have been renovated by both
Nicodemus Tessin the Elder and Younger.
I’m deducing that it was they who plastered the church and gave the
north and south transepts Palladio-inspired facades with pilasters and
tympanums.
While the three above churches were all begun in the last
half of the 1500’s, none of them were finished until the mid-1600’s. Between 1635 and 1685, Stockholm’s population quadrupled, reaching
60,000 inhabitants. Soon after the above
churches were complete, the city of Stockholm
had grown enough to require a new group of parish churches.
In contrast to the Clara, St. Jacob’s, and Maria Magdalena
churches described above, Katarina Kyrka (map 4, 1656) is a Greek cross in
plan, meaning that all 4 arms of the cross are equal in length. This symmetrical plan is not meant for
processionals and pageantry; indeed, the interior of the church is quite
unadorned. Pews in three of the cross
arms face each other, and more pews occupy the center of the church. One arm of the cross contains an alter, but this
seems a secondary focus compared with the huge chandelier and oculus in the
center of the church. However, Jean de la Vallee’s (King Carl X’s chief
architect) original plan called for the alter and pulpit to be located in the
center of the church. This arrangement
had been approved by the king, but after his death, the parish protested and
King Carl XI intervened to move the alter to the eastern arm of the cross.
The churchyard
surrounding Katarina Kyrka is especially large.
There is evidence that King Carl X intended to move his administration
center to this site and that he intended to replace the Tre Kroner Castle on this site as well. For these reasons, he wished for a
particularly impressive church, and he demanded that the church should be continental
in style, befitting of the monarch of a new European superpower.
Katarina Kyrka
has had a particularly tumultuous history.
In 1520, Christian II of Denmark
invaded and captured Stockholm. Immediately following a banquet celebrating
his victory, Christian II invited Sweden’s nobles to a private
meeting and assured their safety.
Instead of discussing the nation’s future, Christian II had 80 of Sweden’s
highest-ranking nobles executed. The
victims of the Stockholm Bloodbath were buried at a cemetery just south of
town; Katarina Kyrka was built on the site of this cemetery. One hundred and fifty years later, 300 women
were tried for witchcraft in the church.
Based on the fabricated testimony of children, these women were found
guilty and burned at the stake. In 1723,
a fire destroyed the church tower, but it was rebuilt in 1734. It is thought that an electrical fault caused
the fire of 1990 which destroyed most of the church. Because the exterior walls and the crossing
were intact, it was decided to rebuild the church using the original methods of
the 1600’s. This included hand-forged
nails, hand-hewn roof timbers, hand-moulded brick in original dimensions, and
the use of birch bark as a long-lasting moisture barrier between the timbers and
the plaster.
Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka (map 5, 1658) was also designed by Jean de la Vallee, though it wasn’t
finished for 75 years and the completing architect, GJ Adelcrantz, made
some alterations to the original drawings.
Although the church is octagonal in plan, the main interior space is
round, bringing the idea of an inward-focused, symmetrical church to full
fruition. While there are some sumptuous
details in the church including gilded capitols, marbleized columns, a gold
alter, and a continuous entablature around the dome, gray plaster covers most
of the interior surfaces making the church feel somber. The church was originally connected to the
navy, and it shares the four-block site with the historic admiralty buildings.
Although it is much smaller in scale, Kungsholmen Kyrka (map
6, 1672) by architect Mathias Spieler is almost identical to Katarina Kyrka in its Greek cross plan and
interior ornamentation. Like Hedvig
Eleonora Kyrka, funds for the building dried up after the foundations were laid,
and there was a pause in construction.
Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka seems to have resumed construction with full
coffers, but Kungsholmen Kyrka is even more subdued and simplified than the
other churches of the period. It is
evident that arched windows were originally planned, but probably in a
cost-saving measure they were actually built as rectangles, leaving bare
plaster to fill the gap between the top of the windows and the arches. Regardless of its modest scale and
ornamentation, Kungsholmen Kyrka makes an impression, perhaps because of its
large, green site amidst the dense Kungsholmen neighborhood and because of its
steeply sloping site. Even though the
church tower is relatively low, it looms over the lower half of the
neighborhood.
Through their evolving architectural styles and their
starkly differing plans, these six churches visibly demonstrate shifts in Sweden’s
politics and religion.
Note: Dates in the above text denote the start of
construction. North is up in all maps.
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